Heading southeast along the Moroccan coast just past Tétouan, you will find a beaten down, half visible sign pointing the way to the small village of Chefchaouen or more traditionally, “Chaouen.” This picturesque community is given only modest attention in most guidebooks. The few images published reveal a scene straight out of Morocco’s distant past. As you approach through the ech-Chaoua peaks in the Rif Mountains, you will note heavy lines of clouds that move up and over these summits. They appear like waves rushing to flood the valley below. Here the air is crisp and the temperature drops as you enter this hidden retreat.