Cairo, Egypt

Standing in the alley we could smell the stench coming from the piles of garbage lying all around. As my wife and I stood frozen, we could not imagine how we had gotten into the situation we now found ourselves. We were becoming more concerned by the minute and had no idea how to get back to Cairo or our hotel. Ten men were heading our way talking and laughing loudly. As we watched, our cab driver walked over to the largest of the bunch and began talking and pointing back at us. We were horror stricken when the large man motioned to one of the others with a smile and a nod. Our concern grew when we witnessed our driver and our new “friend” Mohammad accepting money and then jumping into the cab and leaving.

Nothing I had read before leaving for Egypt could have prepared me for the events to come. This was our first trip out of the country and we had no idea what to expect or what to avoid. We were in Egypt and alone.

Cairo is a very fast paced city. There is movement everywhere and sometimes it is hard just to think. As we left our hotel that morning, we were excited about seeing the pyramids. It was going to be the climax of our trip and we could not wait but first we had to find a taxi. Luckily, we stumbled into a field of taxis less than 10 minutes away. At first it was hard to communicate but eventually we found a driver willing to deal with us and take us to our destination. The taxi, pulling away from the curb, crossed the Nile into Giza, and immediately pulled over again to pick up another passenger. Although we had read that sharing a taxi was common in Egypt, it still felt a little bit strange when our driver pulled over and picked up another passenger. The stranger climbed in the front seat and the two men exchanged greetings and began laughing; they apparently knew each other. After a few moments, the man turned and introduced himself as “Mohammad” and said that he would love to help us in any way he could.

Mohammad was a large man with a thick Arabic accent; he dressed in the traditional Egyptian robes and spoke perfect English. When Mohammad learned we were headed to the pyramids, he instantly wanted to help. It seemed Mohammad had a 'friend' who owned stables nearby and would happily take us on tour by horseback. My wife, who is scared to death of horses, started to worry, but reluctantly agreed because of my insistence.

Immediately we turned off the main road and started heading down a series of winding dirt roads and back alleys, past mud brick homes and buildings; some of which were in complete ruins. The heat was intense; it baked the dirt roads and created a fine mist of sand everywhere. This was the sort of dust that leaped up behind passing cars and formed small clouds as they passed. Everywhere we looked there were decrepit buildings with open windows and doors or buildings using cardboard or wooden planks to cover large cracks. As we continued, I began remembering stories of travelers in far off countries being kidnapped, robbed or killed. I could feel a sickness growing in m stomach.

Finally our car came to a halt in an alley in the middle of this maze of buildings. We had no idea where we were or who we were with. After leaving the taxi, Mohammad and our driver walked over to the group of men, take money and leave. Now we were alone and had no idea who these strangers were or what was about to happen. As the taxi disappeared, the largest of the group came up to us and explained in descent English that our tour would include a trip to the pyramids of Giza and those at Saqqara and conclude with dinner at a Bedouin camp.